I make the trip to A New Day Cambodia four afternoons a week now to volunteer. On two days I come at 4:30, after the kids are done with school, to hang out, play games, and be a native English speaker ready for them to practice with. I’m getting some simple music lessons started during this time, hoping soon to sing, do call-and-response rhythm using pots and sticks, to introduce classical music recordings, or other activities in that vein. The other two days a week I alternate in the intermediate and advanced English classrooms teaching! It’s my charge to cover pronunciation, reading, and doing “activities” like games and songs.
I love the drama of the drive down the red dirt road with mammoth rocky potholes. They have resembled water basins this week because of all the rain. I always have my backpack on, which sticks out to the width of another person attached to me, and the weight of it makes flying up and down on a motorbike an adrenaline-inducing balancing act as I try to relax my limbs and only clutch the little bar beneath the seat. On Tuesday my driver and I ended up behind an unwieldy colossal truck that looked like it was from the 1930s, barely navigating its way down the road with a full load of terrified ducks spewing feathers out the barred sides and back. The danger today was motorbike tête-a-têtes, as the red dirt had turned to maroon mud and there were very narrow stretches for motorbikes approaching on opposite sides to drive on without getting stuck. Every time I go past I stare at the pet monkey that’s chained to a tree by an iron cuff around one of its wrists, wondering how delighted or plotting the animal’s cackling screeches are.
Yesterday I decided to try doing a music lesson for the first time, as I had hit upon the idea of blowing into glass bottles with different levels of water to make lower and higher notes—cheap and entertaining! First I had to figure out where to procure glass bottles, since everyone hordes them because they are worth money if sold to a recycling plant. As I was picking up my Vietnamese visa from the Okay Guest House during my lunch break, I randomly put on a bright smile and asked the owner if I could buy some used bottles from him for their normal recycling price, explaining that I wanted to use them to teach music to kids. He said I could have a box of twelve empty Beer Lao bottles for free. So I ended up walking the mile back to the Friends-International office with my obese backpack and a large cardboard box conspicuously emblazoned with the Beer Lao logo. I cannot count the number of people who asked me for a beer and refused to believe that the bottles were empty, as I sweated so profusely during my walk that the sweat lost its salty taste and texture.
I feared that my labors would be lost as my motorbike slammed up and over the perilous road and the bottles clanked tauntingly. I proudly carried the intact box into the new center where the kids congregate after school by the volleyball net, swing set, and dirt yard to run off their energy…and remembered that I had just walked into an orphanage compound and was clutching a box of fully-labeled, unrinsed beer bottles to give to the kids! I ran to the bathroom and used the bidet to soak the adhesive off and rinse out the glass foamy insides. It took a startling forty-five minutes and several awkward half-explanations to curious youthful onlookers, but finally the instruments were ready.
I demonstrated by blowing on three bottles filled with their respective water levels and the kids responded instantly with hanging jaws and beckoning hands to the noise. The bottles were passed around as everyone had their try. Unfortunately, the embouchure proved too difficult to master for most, and only a few especially industrious and determined musicians found success. I encouraged the kids to keep practicing, and they all looked doubtfully at the brown glass but shrugged, grinned, and assured me they would.
An older boy in the intermediate English class I teach in found an alternate use for the instruments—a popular Cambodian kids’ game where the kids put two water buckets at one end of a “racetrack” (in this case a long, flat stretch of concrete) and two bottles on overturned baskets at the other. Two opponents compete to see which one can fill their mouth with water from the bucket, run down the track, and spit the water into the bottle to fill it up before the other. The kids went wild for the game, forming cheering squads for both teams, jumping around and egging each other on. One young competitor, a girl who was about eight, exhibited an astonishing drive to win. She ran, cheeks puffer-fished out full of water, with her head bent forward and eyes boring into the bucket or the bottle, her goals. When she finally triumphed, her expression and fist jabbed high in the air made me almost believe she had just won her very own star or something of that celestial like.
The best part for me was watching the older boy assume a natural leadership role in organizing and executing the game. He kept a close eye on the cheering squads to make sure they stayed appropriate and positive—he had no problem cutting his eyes at the stray nutty enthusiast. The proceedings were also kept fair by him, and he was clearly taking enjoyment from the game because it was going well and he felt proud of what he had created by being a leader. When it was time to eat dinner (one of my favorite sayings that the kids at ANDC have is they say “time to eat rice!” instead of “time to eat dinner!”) he made everyone help clean up the game and area.
I somehow ended up back at the older girls’ house when they were eating rice. The house “mommies” kept holding out a plastic bowl to me and motioning to the big pot of rice and pans of cucumbers and salty fish. I felt too guilty to accept food when I have money to buy my own. But then one of my students tugged on the hem of my t-shirt and said, “Have extra rice tonight. Eat rice with us please!” So I sat down next to her and bowed my head to my bowl, letting her show me how to spear a slice of cucumber and put it in my mouth and then scoop salty fish into my rice and chew it all together. It was the best meal I’ve had in seven weeks.
Today was a teaching day, also one of the hottest that I’ve faced—the kind where sweat breaks out on your brow as you are simply sitting and shooting the breeze (or attempting to.) I got the advanced kids doing skits in groups of three in front of the class by having them read the cartoon dialogue from their workbooks. This meant a tenfold increase in gusto for proper pronunciation and reading the material, and that I could finally gauge the levels of the reluctant students in class. I introduced clapping the syllables of a word while saying it to help with pronunciation to the intermediate kids and the extra noise was met with approval by all. Then I taught them “The Eensy-Weensy Spider” section by painstaking section. Before they even heard the melody, the all had to repeat “eensy-weensy,” “water spout,” “washed,” etc. to me individually, as well as go over and over the words correctly and memorize what they meant. When I finally sang the song for them and they sang along with me many times, they were thrilled to pieces at how different the words sounded with a melody! They all copied down the words to rehearse and left humming all manner of creative remixes.
I like teaching more every time I gather my wits and jump in. I love the rush of blood I get when I stand up in front of a class and realize I’m about to give a performance more consequential than any I ever gave on a keyboard. I can’t get enough of the quizzical expressions changing to understanding ones, of raised hands and the victory of getting a shy or obdurate student to participate in class. It’s a wonder and an incredible sensation to be respected as a giver of knowledge--and it’s humbling.